An auction sheet from Japan can look like a page of code: a number, a letter, a drawing of a car covered in small marks, and a block of handwritten Japanese. It is easy to feel you are buying blind. In fact the sheet is one of the best things about buying from Japan, because an inspector has looked over the car and written down what they found.
This guide explains how the grades work in general terms, what the damage marks usually mean, and how to get the most from a sheet before you bid.
Every auction has its own legend. The broad system below is common across Japanese auctions, but the exact meaning of each grade and code can differ from one auction house to the next. Treat this as a guide to reading sheets, and check the legend for the auction your car is in.
What an auction sheet is
Before a car goes through a Japanese auction, the auction's own inspector looks it over and fills in a sheet. It records the model and chassis code, the year, the mileage, the equipment, an overall grade, an interior grade, a diagram of the bodywork and a notes section.
The inspector works for the auction, not the seller. That makes the sheet a fair starting point, though it is still a quick inspection of a car on a busy day, not a full workshop report.
The overall grade
The big number or letter near the top is the overall grade. Higher is better, and the scale usually runs like this:
| Feature | What it generally means |
|---|---|
| S or 6 | As new, or very nearly. Used by some auctions for recent, very low-mileage cars |
| 5 | Excellent condition, with very little wear |
| 4.5 | Very good, with only small marks |
| 4 | Good condition for its age, with some light marks. One of the most common grades |
| 3.5 | Average, with visible wear or marks that may need attention |
| 3 | Below average, with more wear or damage |
| 2 and 1 | Poor condition, or used by some auctions for heavily modified cars |
| R or RA | The car has had accident damage repaired. RA is often used for lighter repairs |
| 0, *** or similar | A special case, such as an unusual car, a non-runner or one sold as seen |
Age matters when you read the number. A grade 4 on a car that is 25 years old is a different thing from a grade 4 on a car that is three years old. The inspector grades the car for what it is, so look at the marks and the notes, not just the headline.
Repaired cars
An R or RA grade does not automatically mean a bad car. It means the inspector found evidence of repair to the structure or to panels beyond a simple respray. Some are well repaired and sensibly priced. Others are best left alone.
If you are not sure, it is safest to avoid repaired grades, or at least to ask for more photos and a proper translation before you bid. The structure is something the IVA test and the MOT both look at here.
Modified cars
Some auctions give a heavily modified car a low grade, or a special one, because it is no longer standard. That is common on sports cars such as the Skyline and the Supra, so a low number on a modified car is a cue to read the notes rather than a reason to dismiss it straight away.
The interior grade
The interior is usually graded separately with a letter, where A is the best. As a rough guide:
- A: very clean, close to new
- B: clean, with normal light wear
- C: worn, with marks, stains or small damage
- D or E: poor, with heavy wear or damage
So a sheet might show 4 and B, meaning a good car with a clean interior. Some auctions add a separate exterior letter as well, so you may see three grades side by side.
The damage map
The car diagram is where the detail lives. The inspector marks each panel with a letter for the type of damage and a number for how bad it is. The most widely used letters are:
| Feature | Usually means |
|---|---|
| A | Scratch |
| U | Dent |
| W | Wave or ripple in the panel, often a sign of a past repair |
| S | Rust |
| C | Corrosion |
| B | Dent with a scratch |
| X | Panel needs replacing |
| XX | Panel has been replaced |
A1 on a bumper is a small scratch and hardly worth a thought. S or C marks underneath, around the sills or on the arches are worth much more attention, because rust is costly to put right and both the IVA test and the MOT check for it.
Translation matters
The grades and the diagram give you the outline. The notes, written in Japanese, often hold the most useful parts: repairs, modifications, warning lights, smells, missing parts, or a remark that the car does not run well.
Most auction agents and exporters will translate a sheet for you, and a good one will tell you what the inspector actually wrote rather than a tidy summary. Ask for a full translation on any car you are serious about, especially an older or modified one.
Reading a sheet before you bid
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Mileage on the sheet
The sheet records the mileage shown when the car came in, in kilometres. Some auctions also flag a car where the reading may not be genuine, or where the meter has been replaced. If the sheet hints at either, have it translated and factor it in. Keep a copy of the sheet with the car's paperwork, as it is a useful record for insurers and future buyers.
Why the build date matters as much as the grade
The sheet tells you about condition. The year tells you what happens when the car gets here. A car under 10 years old takes an IVA test and needs a speedometer reading in mph. A car over 10 years old takes an MOT instead. A car over 30 years old pays 5% VAT and no duty, instead of the standard 20% VAT and 10% duty on a car from Japan.
Shipping from Japan is usually by RoRo and takes about 5 to 8 weeks. As a guide, it starts from £3,575, shipping only. If you bought at auction, the auction agent usually arranges the trip to the port. Our guides to importing a car from Japan and the cost of importing from Japan take it from there.
Send us a copy of the export certificate before the car ships and we can check its technical details early. The Japanese import checklist has the rest of the list.
Questions people ask
What is a good Japanese auction grade?
Grade 4 and above is generally a good car for its age, and grade 4 is one of the most common. Always read the grade against the age of the car and the damage map, and check the auction's own legend.
What does R or RA mean on an auction sheet?
It generally means the car has had accident damage repaired, with RA often used for lighter repairs. Some are fine, but if you are not sure it is safest to avoid them or get more photos and a full translation first.
What do A1, U2 and S mean on the damage map?
The letter is the type of damage and the number is how bad it is. A is usually a scratch, U a dent and S rust, with 1 being small. Exact codes vary between auctions, so check the legend.
Do I need the auction sheet translated?
For any car you are serious about, yes. The notes in Japanese often hold the most useful details, such as repairs, modifications or warning lights. Most auction agents and exporters will translate a sheet.
Are auction grades the same at every auction?
Broadly similar, but not identical. Each auction house prints its own legend, and the meaning of some grades and damage codes differs from one to another.
Found a car with a sheet you like? Send it to us on the quote form and we will price the shipping, customs, testing and registration.
